32 channel DMX dimmer "pack" for LEDs/clusters/strips/bars (or relays, solenoids, small motors, lasers, EL drivers, anything DC powered)

(New version 2!)


This board is for sale!
Board size: 6.95" x 3.0", with 6 holes for 6-32 screws; a set of 6 1/4" nylon standoffs are provided.  There are 4 holes at the corners (0.15" in from board edges) and two near the middle, at 3.6" x 1.5" and 5.1" x 1.5" relative to lower left corner.

Top view:
(dmx32 V2 top view)

(for Version 1 information, please go here)

Feature set:

Since this board is intended to be installed in an enclosure with other equipment, and wiring requirements are highly dependent on the installation, there is no case provided and the DMX connection is with a terminal block instead of a bulky 3 or 5-pin XLR (either is available by request).  See wiring diagram below for details.

The basic operation is that this board switches the negative of your LED clusters to the LED power supply's ground.  This slightly counter-intuitive method is called low-side switching, and is the most common way things like this are done, since it is simpler, cheaper, and more efficient than switching the positive of the LED clusters (called high-side switching). 

Wiring diagram: is here.  Some notes about the wiring:

Operation and testing:
  1. Turn off the LED power supply, and set the board DIPswitches to: Dimmable ON, 16bit DMX OFF, Testmode OFF, Terminate OFF.
  2. Connect the LED power supply to the board.  (+) is the top position on the 3-position connector on the right, marked with red paint.  (-) is either of the two below it, and either of the two on the 2-position connector in the middle of the board.
  3. Turn on the LED power supply.  You should see the status LED blinking green slowly.  If not, check that at least 7V is present on the (+) relative to the (-).
  4. Now connect the (+) for one of your LED clusters/strips to LED power supply + and the (-) to the power supply negative.  It should light up.  This ensures it is working.
  5. Turn off the LED power supply, and wire the cluster in: the LED cluster (+) goes to the LED power supply (+), either at the big green board connector or at the power supply itself.  Wire the LED cluster (-) to channel 1.
  6. Turn on the LED power supply.  The board's status LED should again blink green slowly, and the cluster is off.  Now flip the "Testmode" DIPswitch to ON.  The status LED now toggles red & green rapidly.  The LED cluster should fade up from black to 10%, then flash full-on momentarily, then go off.  After 5 seconds or so this repeats.  The board is doing a fade-up of all channels to 10%, then chases all channels at 100%, then repeats.  If the LED cluster doesn't light, or stays lit, turn off power and recheck wiring.  Also try a different channel.
  7. At this time, you're ready to wire!  I don't have a good solution for how to combine all the LED cluster (+) together; you can use multiple wire-nuts, or get a multi-position terminal block and wire all its pins together, or strip 8" of thick wire and solder the LED cluster (+) to it.  I've done it all these ways and others.  If you've got something handy, please let me know.
  8. I suggest wiring a half dozen or so channels and verifying operation with the "Testmode" DIPswitch at this time.  They should all come up to 10%, then chase.  Remember that multiple thick, short wires from the board to the LED power supply ground are required for high currents; see notes and wiring diagram above.
  9. On to DMX: set the "Testmode" DIPswitch to OFF, choose the DMX start ID (suggest 1) and set the 9-position DIPswitch for it (for help with decimal to binary go here).  The DIPswitch on the DMX32 is a little confusing.  Firstly, ignore the numbers 1-9 printed on the switch itself, instead look at the "256","128","64", etc. printed on the circuit board.  These numbers are the "bit value" of the corresponding switch; OFF= binary 0 and ON= binary 1.  Example: DMX ID 274 is "100010010" in binary, so the leftmost switch ("256") is ON, the 128,64,32 are OFF, 16 is ON, 8 and 4 are OFF, 2 is ON, and 1 is OFF.
  10. Now connect the DMX cable to the board.  If you have a 3-pin or 5-pin DMX cable, you can cut the end and screw the wires into the terminal block (pin 2 and pin 3; pin 1 do not connect) or use a 3 or 5 pin to wire pigtails adapter - I normally have a few for $15.  Either of the two DMX terminal blocks can be used, there are two for wiring convenience for multi-board installations.  Top pin is DMX pin 2, bottom pin is DMX pin 3.
  11. Flip the "Terminate" switch to ON, and plug into your DMX source and turn it on.  The board status LED should be flashing fast green.  If it is red (meaning garbled data): the pin 2 / pin 3 is likely backwards or one is loose.  If it is slow green: no DMX is seen; double check the wiring, and that pin 2 / pin 3 is correct, and that your DMX source is outputting data.
  12. Now finally for the fun part!  If the DMX start ID is 1, and your DMX source is outputting data for channel 1-32, you should be able to fade up and down your installed LED clusters.  If there is a lot of flicker, check the DMX wiring; if one wire is loose there will be lots of bad data.  If the fade up/down looks choppy, compare it with the fade up the Testmode does.  Some lighting control desks and software don't do smooth ramps; the fade up the Testmode does shows the board's best capabilities.

Other notes
:

Price & Quantity discounts:
Quantity 1-3: $299
Quantity 4-8: $275 (8% off)
Quantity 9-15: $260 (13% off)
Quantity 16+: $250 (16% off)

Plus sales tax if shipped to a California address, unless you have a resale certificate.

Payment methods & fees:

Shipping:

To order, please email me: jesse@celestialaudio.com with some details about your project (a link to the LED fixtures, wattage/current of each channel, how many on at one time, wire run lengths, etc.) and I'll get back to you quickly, usually within 24 hours and will give you my cell phone# / Skype contact details.  If you don't hear from me within 2 days please email again and provide an alternate contact email address and/or a phone#.  Approximately half the people who contact me have a project with a deadline so I try to rapidly respond so that if the DMX32 isn't suitable for your project you can look for alternatives without wasting time waiting for me.


Useful accessories!

[fuseholder][distblock]

Please visit the accessories page for info about fuse protection and power distribution accessories to make your installation easier and safe from short circuit failures.



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